The art of Bandhani is as exciting as its history. The word Bandhani is derived from a Sanskrit word Bandhan which means 'tying up'. This ancient art of tie and dye dates back to Indus valley civilization.
The famous 6th century Ajanta Cave paintings show Bandhani dot patterns on garments. The Bandhani saree was also referred to at the time of Bana Bhatt's Harshacharita in a royal marriage.
Bandhani is a technique of resist dyeing which is made by tying the cloth into many small bindings to protect it from the dye.
First, the fabric is usually folded in 2 or more layers and the design is either marked using wooden blocks dipped in Geru (burnt sienna and water mixture) or sections are marked using a cord dipped in Geru.
The tying is usually done by the women in their homes along with their household chores. There are typically two ways to tie the knots - one is by raising the material with the pointed nail to create a tiny peak which is then tied tightly and the other is by using filler materials like Black Mustard seeds inside the knot and tying the thread around it. Hence the term - Rye Dana Bandhani (hindi name for Black Mustard seeds) . It is the local description for very fine dots which is made only in the Kutch region of Gujarat in India. The finer the dots , the more time is taken to make the fabric and hence
becomes more valuable. The density of knots can be as high as 4000-5000 per metre of fabric. An average woman can tie upto 700 knots in a single day!!
It is then dipped in for a dye bath and the design is revealed when the knots are pulled opened after. It is a combination of a cluster of patterns, beautiful colour combinations, and alluring twirls. Our skilled craftsmen have adapted conventional designs, new
colours, and natural dyes; to create ensembles that have a global appeal. It's an artful blend of the modern and the traditional skills.
The Inception of Dyelgoue
Rachita Parekh’s tryst with Bandhani goes back a long way. What started as a fascination of working with various crafts groups to help bridge the gap between rural design and urban demand has now created a niche in Bandhani and beyond.
For the longest time, this fascinating craft of 'tie and dye' was restricted to sarees and dupattas used mostly in weddings and festivals. We have given a fresh lease of life to ‘Bandhani‘ by using non-traditional motifs and colours in contemporary clothing like kaftans and capes as well as textiles.